Bob,
On another forum someone said that if you grind away the surface of the flow coat quite hard, you can get a surface that resin, (and the matting), will adhere to. Then, if you apply the flow coat over the resin in the normal way, it gives the required water proof finish. I tried something like that when I modified a filter bay that had been fibre-glassed.
For about an inch, I ground back to the matting, then for another inch I ground back about half way through the thickness of the flow coat. Then I resined the new matting to the old but painted the resin out over the ground back flow coat. Once that had cured, I sanded everything down and applied the flow coat.
At the edge where the new flow coat met the surface of the old, I overlapped the new over the old by literally a few millimeters. I didn't "feather it out" because that would have meant putting a thin coat of new over the old and I thought that might be where the peeling back would start. By only overlapping by a few millimeters and by leaving it fairly thick at that point, it set to a thick ridge that doesn't seem as if it would be thin enough to peel or flake.
Anyway, that was the theory. I picked and scratched at it before I refilled and it looked like a good job. And that was a whole three months ago and it still looks to be a sound join. Jog my memory in a couple of years time and I'll tell you whether it lasted.
