Thought I would use a pair of eyelet pliers to put brass eyelets around the edge and then run elastic through them so that I could attach the elastic to screws (or something better looking!) which I'll drill into the brickwork.
I'm planning on keeping the water temperature at 13-14 degrees over autumn / winter.
this would probably be a better buy. comes with all the straps and stuff. just need to cut to fit your pond, then attach some eyelets to it.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/DELUXE-WINTER-POOL-CO ... 286.c0.m14" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
the one you posted about is ore of a summer solar cover, shouldnt think it would take much tension before splitting.
First off I want to say that the bubble wrap floating on the top of the pond has the disadvantage of greatly reducing the surface area needed as an oxygen exchange interface. In layman's terms, your pond needs to breath. The answer to that is only to cover a portion of the pond. The downside to this is fish leaping onto to cover and dying.
I like the polycarbonate panels and use them myself though they are not as practical if you have a lot of plants and rocks around the edge of the pond. These panels are best suited for geometrical pond shapes with flat combing around the sides.
Polycarbonate is also very flexible and light and might need a strut of sorts across the pond to stop it from sagging inward (local cats wandering across?) For this reason it is also better to buy the thicker sheets. The sheets can be reused every year and stored in the summer stacked on-end against the garage wall or behind a shed/out-building/house. Do be sure to fit an end cap or duct taper the ends closed to keep the channels clean and transparent.
Weighting down the edges also help to keep your expensive polycarbonate from blowing away
