Poly Carb roof plans 3
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- Bob Hart
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- Location: Maidstone, Kent, England
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Paul - Started with that, see previous plans threads. The difficulty is that the patio area is higher than where you'd normally stand to view the pond. When standing on the patio, all you'd see is the top of the roof area. Therefore is pitched, on the patio you'd be standing by the pitch area and therefore still see into the pond. Hope this makes sense, although flat roof may still be on the cards.
Jane - Poly Carb'd to keep the heat in in the Winter. The back will be filled permanenatly, then during the winter the front/sides will be filled with poly carb. Nice and warm in the whole area.
Jane - Poly Carb'd to keep the heat in in the Winter. The back will be filled permanenatly, then during the winter the front/sides will be filled with poly carb. Nice and warm in the whole area.
- KOIBOY-greggharris
- Manta Ray
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- Joined: Mon Sep 19, 2005 5:15 pm
- Location: kent, england
looks great bob
i agree
wouldn't want anymore posts at the front
a) yer the fish i know with our net you hit the garage wall to being trapped between loads of posts are gonna be a right pain
b) it'll look ugly to have a lot of bars like a cage
theheat given off could warn the polycarb and any snow might melt and run off
yer you could use a drag net but it still doesn't solve the problem
ours is open plan and you still need the room to grab the fish and angle the net diagonally so you can get to the fish
if between posts you can't get the angle to get the fish to the surface whilst giving you room to grab the fish from the net
never did like the feeling of being trapped when in a panic with a fish in a net flapping about
you could have bigger stronger main posts at the front as apposed to smaller little ones
any way looks great
i agree
wouldn't want anymore posts at the front
a) yer the fish i know with our net you hit the garage wall to being trapped between loads of posts are gonna be a right pain
b) it'll look ugly to have a lot of bars like a cage
theheat given off could warn the polycarb and any snow might melt and run off
yer you could use a drag net but it still doesn't solve the problem
ours is open plan and you still need the room to grab the fish and angle the net diagonally so you can get to the fish
if between posts you can't get the angle to get the fish to the surface whilst giving you room to grab the fish from the net
never did like the feeling of being trapped when in a panic with a fish in a net flapping about
you could have bigger stronger main posts at the front as apposed to smaller little ones
any way looks great
The Hart Project
Bob
What you want is a structural engineer and architect that is also a Koi hobbyist
I will have a word and get him to give you a ring
DES
What you want is a structural engineer and architect that is also a Koi hobbyist
I will have a word and get him to give you a ring
DES
- Bob Hart
- Site Admin
- Posts: 2292
- Joined: Sun Aug 14, 2005 8:53 am
- Location: Maidstone, Kent, England
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Hi Des,
When I went to Danny's yesterday, he had 4" x 2" beams on a near flat roof longer than 3-metres and he pulled himself up on these and they bend a little bit, but not much. Danny reckons he weighs 10 stone, more like 14 stone though. He says he's had snow on the roof before as well.
4" X 2" will therefore be OK for the pitches, based upon this demonstration.
It's just the front, where I'd like it as open as I can. A nice big beam from one end to the other would be great.
When I went to Danny's yesterday, he had 4" x 2" beams on a near flat roof longer than 3-metres and he pulled himself up on these and they bend a little bit, but not much. Danny reckons he weighs 10 stone, more like 14 stone though. He says he's had snow on the roof before as well.
4" X 2" will therefore be OK for the pitches, based upon this demonstration.
It's just the front, where I'd like it as open as I can. A nice big beam from one end to the other would be great.
-
- Sandbar shark
- Posts: 24
- Joined: Mon Jan 29, 2007 8:47 pm
Hi, Bob, just my 2 penneth, the front spans are just to wide for any timber unless you have a flitch beam designed for the purpose which would need an engineer to design as has been suggested. try to reduce span to a max of 3.6 metres ie 12 feet, then you can use 8x2 or 12 x 2 with a nice curved bottom for an arched affect.Tel
- tomy2ponds
- Great White Shark
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- Location: Surrey/London borders
Hi Bob have you considered reclaimed timber possibly even a steel beam could be found at one of those reclamation places
I can see your point of less posts on the front & Jane's Idea of bolting two timbers together would work well too as we do this quite often when building roofs.And altering/moving internal wall's when doing a conversion.
LEE

LEE
- Bob Hart
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Paul - missed your post earlier, think we were both posting at roughly the same time. It's a big conservatory really. Filter maintenance will be dry and easy. The shower I'm fitting will be 'indoors' in reality.
During the Summer months it will be a poly carb'd roof with a back on it. During the colder months, I'll fit poly carb to the front and sides. At the far end though, there will be an area under the roof which can be used to sit about in.
Lee - Reclaimed timber and possibly a large steel beam are a possibility certainly. Once I get the back posts/timbers in place, I can decide on the front and them scavange about for more timber and possibly the beam.
Carl - Nick Gray does some good prices for poly carb 'seconds', which dont really look like there is anything wrong with them. I have another supplier though, through a friend.
Nick Gray poly carb website - http://www.nick-gray.co.uk/
During the Summer months it will be a poly carb'd roof with a back on it. During the colder months, I'll fit poly carb to the front and sides. At the far end though, there will be an area under the roof which can be used to sit about in.
Lee - Reclaimed timber and possibly a large steel beam are a possibility certainly. Once I get the back posts/timbers in place, I can decide on the front and them scavange about for more timber and possibly the beam.
Carl - Nick Gray does some good prices for poly carb 'seconds', which dont really look like there is anything wrong with them. I have another supplier though, through a friend.
Nick Gray poly carb website - http://www.nick-gray.co.uk/
Hi Bob looks like You are getting plenty of feedback on this one mate. Some of it good some of it not so good, but hey thats what You posted it for. So You could get an angle of different peoples opinions.
I think Jane has put the problem on the front to bed for You. As I mentioned to You yesterday Double trimmers are the way to go. Star bolt them together and then You have a 6x4 front timber. Capable of taking the wieght of a polycarb roof. 4x2 timbers running to Your 6x1 Apex board. Brace the Apex with either Ply as has been mention. You could then just make up a template cut all the ply to the size and shape. Then this would also act as a profile. To ensure the pitch of Your roof is the same through out. Or You could just simply bolt 4x2 cross braces 300mm down from the apex. To Your 4x2 main roof run timbers. 4x2 nogins in evenly spaced down the run of the roof to ensure no twisting to timbers. You can also use these to polytop nail into for Your poly carb sheets. With the us of Your purlins that You plan to lay it all on as well this roof will go nowhere. Even if we have a stray snow cloud from the Northpole
I think perhaps sometimes people get a little excited at over enginering a project. The thing to bare in mind is that 90% of all houses built today only have 4x2 timbers in the roof. OK they are closer toghether and have more internal braceing, but they have to hold up felt,baten, roof tiles and snow.
I am sure I will play a part in the building of this roof somewhere along the line
I am looking forward to the challenge.
Justin
I think Jane has put the problem on the front to bed for You. As I mentioned to You yesterday Double trimmers are the way to go. Star bolt them together and then You have a 6x4 front timber. Capable of taking the wieght of a polycarb roof. 4x2 timbers running to Your 6x1 Apex board. Brace the Apex with either Ply as has been mention. You could then just make up a template cut all the ply to the size and shape. Then this would also act as a profile. To ensure the pitch of Your roof is the same through out. Or You could just simply bolt 4x2 cross braces 300mm down from the apex. To Your 4x2 main roof run timbers. 4x2 nogins in evenly spaced down the run of the roof to ensure no twisting to timbers. You can also use these to polytop nail into for Your poly carb sheets. With the us of Your purlins that You plan to lay it all on as well this roof will go nowhere. Even if we have a stray snow cloud from the Northpole

I think perhaps sometimes people get a little excited at over enginering a project. The thing to bare in mind is that 90% of all houses built today only have 4x2 timbers in the roof. OK they are closer toghether and have more internal braceing, but they have to hold up felt,baten, roof tiles and snow.
I am sure I will play a part in the building of this roof somewhere along the line

Justin