are not verifiable by us. Neither I, Koi-unleashed, or anyone else connected
with the board can accept any
liability or responsibility for the condition of your pond, filters and or
fish, should you carry out any treatments
mentioned on the this site or discussed in the forum.
The treatment of fish, while hopefully successful, can have unexpected side
effects and a fish weakened by
illness, stress or parasites can die even though the treatment was within
reasonable parameters. Repeat
dosing, dosing with more than one treatment, concurrently or consecutively,
and /or an erroneous pond volume calculation can impact negatively on both
fish and filter.
If you are not certain of the potential results of
your treatments, you should seek professional advice.
If you have a morale issue with the use of chemicals
in your hobby please do yourself a favour and do not read
any further into this paper. These are proven protocols that work for my friends
and I, you are in no way being forced to either read or practice these protocols.
The following is a list of common piscine ailments and what will stand a very
good chance of a cure, for koi carp and koi carp ONLY! Before commencement
of the Data a few words of caution.
Chemotherapy of koi can never be entirely safe and as always is a last resort.
Having made that statement, we
all live in the real world where this has to take place from time to time
because of the limitations placed on us by keeping koi in a closed circuit
limited volume environment. Chemotherapy, despite what some would have you
believe is far from a walk in the park with regards to the adverse effects
chemicals have on fish and its environment. The introduction of a toxic chemical
to a living organism will have far reaching effects not least because tolerances
to chemical treatments will vary in individual koi, also chemicals will impact
negatively on
the bio filter, on which your koi depend for life support. The severity of
the negative influence chemicals will
have on the filter will vary greatly dependent on, the maturity and overall
efficiency and size of the filter and of course on the chemical used. The
reason for this variation of cause and effect are obvious. What we are trying
to achieve is a high kill ratio on pathogens. This will invariably involve
the use of as high a dose as possible, without effecting the well being of
what we are about to cure * the koi*. Such dose rates, will, in many cases
be close to the koi's absolute tolerance while obtaining a high kill ratio
of pathogens. Its has to be said, we do
sail close to the wind on many occasions when practising chemotherapy. I'm
sure its appreciated, that chemotherapy, some times is not an easy task and
is probable *THE* major cause of deaths in ornamental koi and fish in general.
I.E. the inappropriate use of a chemical when a problem/symptom was either
environmental
or nutritional, or merely that the koi was so sick or stressed it just could
not withstand the treatment.
All the above may seem a harsh statement but it's a fact that the majority
of koi deaths are by overdose by the
well intending hobbyists and professional alike, killing the koi with kindness
and the very best of intentions
Rules.
Rule 1
Know your pond volume I cannot emphasise this enough, most chemicals will
not allow for much if any margin of error. At best, an underestimated pond
volume will lead to under dosing the pond with little or no effect but it
further helps to stress the koi and makes a bad situation much worst At worst
an over estimated pond volume results in a chemical overdose, result either
burnt damaged or very DEAD koi The above is a very real threat if you do not
accurately know your pond volume. You have been warned!
Rule 2
When measuring chemicals, use something with some accuracy. Either a measuring
jug marked in ml or cc
and if powder, leave this task to a gram scales, really quite cheap these
days, do not measure with spoons
these are strictly for tea and coffee and baking.
Rule 3
Always use PPE (personal protective equipment) eye protection, gloves, and
in some cases respiratory masks. The bottom line is you only have two eyes
and two lungs, either of which will succumb to Potassium Permanganate and
alike.
Rule 4
Almost all chemicals with the exception of hydrogen peroxide will lower the
oxygen saturation point of pond
water so always use extra air stones whilst a chemical is active in the pond
* especially in warm weather.
Rule 5
Never administer a pond treatment and just simply walk off and leave the fish
to deal with what ever may or may not go wrong. Always stay on hand and look
over them and be ready to either neutralize the chemical or be
ready to do water changes if this is not possible, You take this responsibility
on the moment you decide to
apply a chemical to your pets.
Rule 6
Know your enemy! Never apply
shotgun medicines in the hope you may get something, diagnose and treat
always !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Rule 7
All chemicals have a limited shelf life of one kind or another some degrade
to become ineffective whilst other become dangerous and toxic, if in doubt
sling it out.
Formaldehyde over time degrades to become Paraformaldehyde which is extremely
toxic to fish and *will* kill. Formalin is Formaldehyde dissolved into methanol,
the purpose of which is to inhibit the formation of Paraformaldehyde. Again
the bottom line is if the Formalin is aged check it out in a clear glass,
if you see a
white precipitate in the solution, disposal is far cheaper.
Masoten is a light blue powder and is an organophosphate, but acts as a Neurotoxin
that is toxic enough in its fresh made up state, but over time will absorb
moisture and it will go dark blue and clump together, in this
state it is very toxic to both the user and the fish and should not be used.
Supaverm can be kept for quite while but eventually it breaks down into a
white precipitate in suspension and might as well be discarded, as it is of
little use. In short old chemicals and medications should be discarded
Trichodina
Potassium Permanganate, at 1.5 gm per 220 imperial gallons one or two treatments
a week apart. Making
sure no dechlorinator or hydrogen peroxide is present in the water, as this
will neutralise potassium permanganate rendering its oxidising effects on
Trichodina ineffective
Alternative treatments, with a spectrum of action against Trichodina
Salt
Formalin
Chloramine T
Flukes
Supaverm at 1 ml/cc per 100 imperial gallons one dose, followed by a 20% water
change on day three or four. Add total dose over three hours around the edge
of the pond. Make sure the bottle of supaverm is shook well before measuring
the dose out, as the active ingredient is in suspension.
Alternative treatments, with a spectrum of action against flukes.
Telmin
Levacide (levamisole hydrochloride)
Potassium Permanganate
Formalin
White spot
Malachite green and formalin together Malachite green 2% at 10 m/cc per 176
imperial gallons Formalin 30%
at 10 ml/cc per 145 imperial gallons used on days 1/ 7 /13 with a 20% partial
water change between each
dose No other effective treatment
Chilodonella
Malachite green and formalin together Dosage as for white spot but two treatments
Alternative treatments with a spectrum of action against Chilodonella
Potassium permanganate
Chloramine T
Salt .
Costia
Potassium permanganate at 1.5 gm per 220 imperial gallons two doses five days
apart.
Chloramine T
Salt
Lernaea and Argulus
Masoten at 1 GM per 87 imperial gallons over the temperature of 65 deg Four
doses weekly Below 65 deg Masoten at 6/8 gm per 1000 imp gallons four doses
weekly.
Alternative treatments with a spectrum of action against Lernaea and Argulus
Dimilin
Salt (Lernaea only)
Bacterial gill disease and viral gill disease Chloramine T, see home page
for viral gill disease for dosage and protocol
Oxidisation of wounds or ulcers after topical treatments
Potassium permanganate @ 1.5 gm per 220 imperial gallons one treatment Or,
Chloramine T, @ 2 gm per 100 imperial gallons one treatment. Never oxidise
a wound / ulcer twice in one day, topically treat day one then
oxidise if needed day two.
Bacterial dropsy
Salt a q-tank to 0.6% salinity in four ascending increments at 12 hour intervals
with fish in situ e.g. one quarter ounce then another till 0.6% is reached
and add proflavine hemesuphate at the equivalent of 4.5 gm per 1000 imperial
gallons, and heat to 23/25 deg c adding extra O2
For USA doses reduce by 20%