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Posted: Thu Mar 27, 2008 6:06 pm
by tancho111
can you get a radial tank connector in it then sandwich either side with stainless screws just an idea
Posted: Thu Mar 27, 2008 6:07 pm
by Bob Hart
As long as the outside is done well and with a few laters, it will be fine. Just rub down with some coarse sandpaper so it gets a good key, make sure everything is nice and clean.
Instructions will be via email, or I can explain on the thread. Get up to B&Q and get a pack of those very cheap brushes, when you are done, just chuck them away. If you need to do more, use another cheap brush. Saves bothering to clean up.
Also get 2 pairs of marigolds!
Posted: Thu Mar 27, 2008 6:13 pm
by jason-m
Hello tancho, thanks for the advice, i think i would rather go the glassing route mate..
Ok Bob...
Posted: Thu Mar 27, 2008 6:27 pm
by dho
Try this
[url=http
://www.cybglassfibre.co.uk/glass_fibre_ ... _print.htm]Instruction for fibreglassing[/url]
Posted: Thu Mar 27, 2008 6:37 pm
by jason-m
thats a great link David..thanks...
Still want Bob's though as i will be mixing smaller quantities..
Posted: Thu Mar 27, 2008 7:15 pm
by dho
Hi jason,
You mix it exactly the same way as genreally speaking you only mixed a fairly small quantity at a time anyway. The only advise I would give you is to make sure you weight everything to make sure you know how much resin/gel coat you have so that you can work out the exact amount of catalyst to add. Too little catalyst it won't cure, too much watch it catch fire in front of your eye ( actually that only happens when you really over do it.)
Posted: Fri Mar 28, 2008 7:59 pm
by StuW
Hi Jason, been following this thread and glad to see you are not getting too dispondant about everything, I think we have all been there at some point or another.
To save on finances couldnt you use a car repair kit from halfords think its either P38 or 40 which includes both the matting and the fine cloth for finishing....it is good..I have used it to repair major damage on fibre glass racing sailing dinghys more than a few times...just a thought, but with Bob guiding you through it all you should be guaranteed a good job. Is there any way you can provide any support between the 3" pipe and the pond base so if your hole is out again it has more support instead of flopping about?
Hope it works out!!
Posted: Fri Mar 28, 2008 9:26 pm
by Bob Hart
Hey Stuart, that's a great though. Those car kit fibreglass tubs, have strips of fibreglass matting in them. I think you just add the hardener, mix it up, then apply the strips.
Jason - may be worth a try. All you are looking to do is re-fix the pipe to the bottom drain base. Once it's in place and dried off, more could be added to strenthen it. Then on the inside, make it good with some gold label.
I think another fixing on the pipe would be good though, could you use a 3" pipe clip, just glass it to the bottom of the tank?
I 'll look out for some containers over the weekend though.
Posted: Sat Mar 29, 2008 10:31 am
by Jules
Well done Brother! Pick it up and crack on. In a few weeks you'll laugh about this and watching your koi swimming round will all be worth it!
The car repair kits are great and you will get a good fix but may need about 3 tins to do what you have to do. Still cheaper than buying all the fibreglass bits to do the job. What you must be sure of is that when the pool is full that the movement you get will not crack any fixes you do now. Do not be afaraid to "over do" the fix. More in this case is better.
If I was there I would replace your bottom drain completley. Take the old bottom drain off, place the tank back in the hole and mark where the bottom drain is. Dig a trench for your new bottom drain and then put in on a base of sand. Put your tank in over the bottom drain and apply copious amnounts of Gold Label. Scre together with stainless screws. Job done.
Good luck mate.
Jules
Posted: Sat Mar 29, 2008 1:05 pm
by jason-m
Stuart.....Bob..
If this is the stuff do you think it would work...?
ISOPON P40 polyester glass fibre filler is a two component chemical paste used for the bridging of holes and rust in surfaces such as steel and GRP.
ISOPON P40 forms a very hard durable surface and can be sanded and shaped if required. It is easily covered with standard polyester filler or can be over-painted directly.
ISOPON P40 polyester filler can be used on the following surfaces
:-
- Bare steel – degrease and abrade with P80 paper, remove all traces of rust.
- Original paint surfaces (
with the exception of thermoplastic acrylics) - degrease and abrade back to bare metal with P180 paper.
The exact mixing ratio is not critical, although over or under catalyzation may affect the gel time. Excess hardener will not significantly speed up the gel time and could lead to bleed through and bleaching problems during over-painting.
Pot life: Once mixed, 4-5 mins. at 20ºC with 4% hardener.
.
Sandable after 20 mins. at 20ºC.
ISOPON P40 polyester glass fibre filler can be over-painted with most paint systems or any of the other filler products in the ISOPON range.
I really want to try and do the inside of the drain as well for extra strength, does anyone know if this stuff can be exposed to the water without any kind of leaching or causing any damage to the fish..?
Brother...
I was thinking of doing a test run when the repair had gone off and just fill the bugger up and leave it to see if i get any loss of depth in the water,
Posted: Sat Mar 29, 2008 2:04 pm
by Bob Hart
ISOPON P40 polyester glass fibre filler is a two component chemical paste used for the bridging of holes and rust in surfaces such as steel and GRP.
This is the stuff Jason. You could use it inside, but you'd need to seal it. When doinf a pond, it is fibreglassed, then Flocoated, the flocoat having the wax in it which allows it to dry in air. I wouldnt therefore put this inside without it being flocoated over the top.
I've found some conatiners today, so if you can wait for a few days I can send you the real stuff? If you do the outside with enough layers, it wont go anywhere. If you then seal any gaps on the inside with dean braven or gold label, it will be fine. Doing the inside as well will be a little tricky and you'd need to then flocoat over the top as well.
Let me know what you want to do and PM me your address.
Posted: Sat Mar 29, 2008 2:32 pm
by jason-m
pm sent....
Posted: Sat Mar 29, 2008 9:27 pm
by kimr
Hi Jason
I just wanted to send you my best wishes for the repair I know how much you want your pond up and running and you should know by now that no pond build is ever easy
Bob will not let you down he is one of the good guys. Good luck and don't forget the photos of the fix. I will keep my fingers crossed for you
Posted: Sat Mar 29, 2008 9:45 pm
by Davej
Hi Jason
Whilst you can glass the bits together out of the pond the problems come when you drop it back in. Problem I could forsee is that your bottom drain pipework may not be properly supported and a load of leverage from the pipe on the area where the repair is.
I would go for Jules's solution, it's nice and simple and really easy. Ok it means a new bottom drain but it represents belt and braces; cut out existing BD, lay a new pipe with bottom drain and then connect up.
Regards
Dave