New Pond Build

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Rodders
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New Pond Build

Post by Rodders »

Hi Guys
I posted some pics of my pond on the members forum page and have took the advise on board.
Im going to go into this properly and do it once and do it right.
I was looking at how to build a concrete koi pond on the net and came across the koi water garden internet site http://www.koicarp.org.uk/koi_pond1.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
I am going to copy this advise but make it 4 foot deep. Not alot of difference but every bit of space counts i suppose.
I will use the easy nexus 200 filter aswell.
I would be looking to do the build as they have using the 100mm blocks. Thoughts anyone :?:
The only thing that baffles me is how do i know where and what height to put my return into the pond.
Im going for a single non airated bottom drain into the nexus 200.
I would like to do away with the heating side of things as i would put a cover over them in the cold winter months.
Any thoughts and sugestions as im hungry to do this right and first time.
For airation can i dangle an airline with air stone attached into the pond.
And for the bottom of the pond whats the best way to slope it so the crap rolls into the bottom drain
Sorry for all the questions but ive read all 10 pages on pond construction and cant find the answers to these questions.

Regards
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Gazza
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Re: New Pond Build

Post by Gazza »

Hi Rodders,

If possible go a bit deeper as 4ft is about a minimum and some even say not less than 5ft but most seem to go for around 6ft.The other thing is make it as big as you can for the amount of filtration your going to have and its better to have a smaller over filtered pond than a large under filtered pond :wink:

What blocks you use will depend on if your coming above ground and if you are back filling but my blocks are laid flat all the way up on two sides which are not seen and then i have them tied into facing bricks on the front. I am not a brick layer so others may help but if your coming above ground make sure its strong enough.

Return pipes to the pond can go in many positions some like them over the top for free air some like them lower i have min about half way down and one a bit higher.

Defiantly go for an aerated drain as IMO its the best thing to have as the air not only helps with air and water movement in the pond it also helps to pull the crap down the drain.

The bottom of the pond does not have to be benched or sloped if you use an aerated bottom drain as this does all the work,my pond has a flat bottom and works fine.

If you can afford a heater and heating then i would add one personally as its a great way to control the environment and if your going to cover you don't need to keep them hot in the winter so it doesn't have to cost a fortune.

Have you thought about a skimmer line and a UV :?:
Rodders
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Re: New Pond Build

Post by Rodders »

I will use a uv yes.
I can only afford a nexus 200 so what size could i go up to. I would like to keep it 13 foot long though.
I might incorporate a skimmmer at a later date as funds do not permit it at the moment. As i take it you have to have that going through something like an easy pod
You say to go with an airated bottom drain. does this just get hooked up to a air pump as normal?
You say you have two returns into the pond, are you running to filters then :?: or can you split the single return into two using t pieces

Regards
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Gazza
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Re: New Pond Build

Post by Gazza »

I think a Nexus 200 will filter around 4000gls (not 100% sure) so you will need to work out the full size first.

You could always install the skimmer and just put a ball valve on the end of the pipe work so its ready for later when funds are available.It is best to have another form of filtration on a skimmer as it will have a pump running so more filtration and pond turnover is a good thing.

Yes the bottom drain has Incorporated pipe which you set into the base and then hook up to a air pump and they are great.

I do have two sets of filtration one from the bottom drain and one from the skimmer and a mid way return.

Are you going to have this fiberglassed :?:
Rodders
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Re: New Pond Build

Post by Rodders »

I am just going to render it using a special mix of sand and cement with plastic reinforcing fibres. This should be very strong. I thought that i would use a paint called p1 from the east riding koi company http://www.koicarp.net/pond_construction/pa ... s/p-1.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
It is ment to be just like fibre glass effect when dry and the benfit of blanket weed not sticking to it very well.
I read somewhere that a bottom drain made out of plastic does not adhere very well to the concrete scred base, is this true :?:
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Gazza
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Re: New Pond Build

Post by Gazza »

I am not 100% sure on the paint stuff but as most will tell you the paints don't all seem to work or last and if you look at the costs sometimes fiberglassing is not that much more expensive so try to work out the costs of the paint for your pond and then the fiberglass cost :idea:

Bottom drains are set into the concrete and i have not heard of any problems but whatever you do make sure you get a good quality bottom drain as you don't want to go digging it up once its all filled and the fish are in :shock:
Rodders
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Re: New Pond Build

Post by Rodders »

When i do my new pond im going to do the new build closer to the house. Has anyone got any ideas as to what to do with the old exsisting one :?:

Heres a pic of it
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brother of feeeshpond

Re: New Pond Build

Post by brother of feeeshpond »

A) Use it as a beer cooler :D

B) take the lilley out and use as a quarantine tank in the future.

c) if it can be linked in some way to your new pond, use it an a vegetable filter.Or as a settlement tank.
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GERRY5
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Re: New Pond Build

Post by GERRY5 »

rodders,...gazza is about right when it comes to glassing the pond in comparison, if you get the right bloke to glass it for you the cost will be about the same , give or take as the paint ,but the glass will last at least 25 years,the paint wont.as for the drain the glass will be lapped into it making a complete seal,and an aerated one will cause displacement by upflow of the air creating suction across the pond floor thus sweeping the crud towards it and out to filter , you havent said (or i missed it)whether this is gravity feed or pump fed , gravity would be better ,in which case allow for the filter bay in your plans, also gravity feed,returns can go where you like as your pumping back to pond,on a new build a wall skimmer is a must .....as for your old pond ....growing on pond 8) incorporate it into the new build 8) beer cooler 8) veggie filter ...ferget it ..they dont work, its to small, and will be a luvvly place for critters to grow ,give o2 during the day take it all out again at night ,go hypoxic if not cleaned regularly ...more trouble than they are worth and very old school ...sorry bof :wink:
Rodders
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Re: New Pond Build

Post by Rodders »

Thanks for your reply Gerry.
Ok so will fill the other pond as the new pond is to far away to incororate it into the new build.
This new pond is going to be gravity fed and i will go with an airated bottom drain, have been reading up on the Spindrifter Air Diffuser drains.
A quick question, ive been looking into the blocks for the build, would the Aerated Blocks be ok or do people use something else thats better suited.
As for the fibreglassing side of things, i know a very good plastera i wonder if he could do the job :?:
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GERRY5
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Re: New Pond Build

Post by GERRY5 »

thorny, will tell you all about building ponds , and the right sort of blocks to use , he may even know a gentleman who has been known to throw a bit of fibreglass up as well drop him a pm and see if hes about ..we used the 9" and 6" hollows on two of our ponds ,, rendered and glassed..
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