diy filter

mark1 · Post by **mark1** » Tue Nov 27, 2007 3:51 pm

I.ime planing on making a filter for a 2000 gal pond using 55gal drums one static and one fluid k1.it will be pump fed using a 8000-10000 ltr pump.ime thinking of using inch and haif inlet and 2 inch between the barels and back to pond.question is will the 2 inch cope with the flow i know there wouidnt be a prob using 4 inch but want to keep the cost down.also is there any need for a drain on the fluid k1.thanks mark

jason-m · Post by **jason-m** » Tue Nov 27, 2007 4:02 pm

2" is probably now the recommended minimum for pipework so it should be fine, but i just wondered why the inlet is inch and half..? a bigger inlet would be a lot better
what sort of pond size is it for...?

mark1 · Post by **mark1** » Tue Nov 27, 2007 4:46 pm

Hi jason.the pond is going to be 12x7x4 in the ground i think about 2000 gal.the pump will be in the pond might use a retro drain.so i will use inch and haif flexy pipe to the filter.my main concern was will the 2 inch between the barels cope with the flow through the filters dont want to fix them together and find they overflow.cheers mark

jason-m · Post by **jason-m** » Tue Nov 27, 2007 5:28 pm

As long as the output pipe is bigger than inlet i can't see a problem, if you are worried why not fit a valve before the filter so if need be you can regulate the flow, but i can't see it being a problem...

GERRY5 · Post by **GERRY5** » Tue Nov 27, 2007 8:06 pm

can see where you are coming from regarding the 2inch pipe , but i dont think its enough , 4inch would certainly be better , we always use 4 inch on ours and it allows you plenty of flowthrough on a pump fed system without risk of overflowing , it also allows you to expand the system at a later date if you so wish , inch and a half pump fed is fine , and you dont need to put a waste on the fluidised drum as there is no settlement , unless you want to empty at any time that is , as jason said if you are going to fit a valve to regulate the flow it must be after the pump so as to minimise the risk of burning out , also it will stop back syphoning from your static when you clean ....

madmole · Post by **madmole** » Wed Nov 28, 2007 9:54 am

I am running 3" on my home made filter, similar size to yours and getting back pressure problems, so I wouldnt go 2"

jason-m · Post by **jason-m** » Wed Nov 28, 2007 5:44 pm

If all you have is 2" pipe, can you not add two or more exits between the barrels..?

mark1 · Post by **mark1** » Wed Nov 28, 2007 6:13 pm

will guter down spout work for joining the filters i think thats 4 inch.or is it best to use the proper pipe.was hoping the 2 inch wouid work to keep the cost down.big difference in price for 4 inch valves and conectors

madmole · Post by **madmole** » Wed Nov 28, 2007 6:23 pm

Gutter down pipe is 68mm (3") thats what I'm using and geting backpressure problems. if you use it do NOT use the 90 deg bends as they ar the culprit

jason-m · Post by **jason-m** » Wed Nov 28, 2007 6:25 pm

It will but problem then is isolating the two for cleaning. Valves are not made to fit downpipe..
If you are having the first static and the second fluidised i would personally put a valve before the inlet to the static and in between the two barrels and one at the out let

madmole · Post by **madmole** » Wed Nov 28, 2007 6:30 pm

3" silicon turbo hose from any ebay car supplier will fit 68mm guttering perfectly and makes it easy to plumb, cheaper than pond fittings

mark1 · Post by **mark1** » Wed Nov 28, 2007 10:39 pm

when you say backpresure does it mean the filter is overflowing.also how do you conect the 68mm downpipe to the barels is there a tank conector this size.and what are you using the silicon turbo hose for.sorry for all the questions but now ime confused

GERRY5 · Post by **GERRY5** » Thu Nov 29, 2007 12:05 am

mark ...simple fact is if you pump water in to fast it wont go through the drums fast enough due to the weight of water in the drums ..i.e. (backpressure)caused by to smaller or not enough outlets , so the drums will overflow more than likely ....have a look at these and see in pics what i think your trying to achieve ...
[url]http://www.koiquest.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3143[/url]

madmole · Post by **madmole** » Thu Nov 29, 2007 9:48 am

I cut the exit pipe out of 68mm gutter and cut a hole in the side of the bin and used waterproof glue to attach and seal. so the pipe is permanently bonded through the bin wall.

To allow movement and removal I used 3" silicon Turbo hose to connect the Bins pipes with the pipes that flow back to the pond, secured by jubille clips

I have 7000 lph going through the bins and it slowly backs up from the exit pipe and raises the water level till it overflows. Thats with 3 90 deg bends in the exit pipe. I have to remove or straighten the bends and/or reduce the flow for the 3" pipe to cope

Post by **B.Scott** » Thu Nov 29, 2007 10:46 am

7000 l/h is a large amount to put through a 3" pipe even without the 90* bends at the end.

B.Scott