Hi Guys
Anyone using Blagdon Ceramic media in a trickle tower?
Can't justify the extra cost of BHM as it's only for some extra filtration to add to my aerated K1 and it's only for a trickle, not a shower.
Any opinions or comments welcomed - especially regarding its effectiveness and how often it needs to be cleaned - it will be in the bottom of my TT so don't want to have to dismantle it too often to clean the media!
BTW, just using biomaze in the TT at the moment, so maintenance free!
Cheers
Bob
Blagdon Ceramic Media
Moderators: B.Scott, vippymini, Gazza, Manky Sanke
Re: Blagdon Ceramic Media
Emmaandaj and me both used it in Bobs showers for a couple of years and it does tend to clog up with fines eventually. We have both replaced it with Bio Chrystal which seems really crumbly and a bit crap to start with but once in use it seems a lot more substancial and is producing really good quality water without the cost of BHM
Re: Blagdon Ceramic Media
hi all so what is the difference between a shower,and a trickle tower.what is the best media for both.lets no include bhm.
Re: Blagdon Ceramic Media
Hello Bob
i have used blagdon ceramic for 3 years now in a shower and also submerged in a CL2...its ok ..but expensive for what you get...
I have also been using the crystal bio ..found this to be brilliant and much better value for money and it certainly works better than the blagdon ceramic
Your more than welcome to pop over and have a look
Max
i have used blagdon ceramic for 3 years now in a shower and also submerged in a CL2...its ok ..but expensive for what you get...
I have also been using the crystal bio ..found this to be brilliant and much better value for money and it certainly works better than the blagdon ceramic
Your more than welcome to pop over and have a look
Max
Re: Blagdon Ceramic Media
Hi Guys
Thanks for the comments. Looks like the crystal bio is a better option than Blagdon in the long term, but doesn't it also clog with fines after a while - especially in a TT where it hasn't got the flow rate of a shower?
Cheers
Bob
Thanks for the comments. Looks like the crystal bio is a better option than Blagdon in the long term, but doesn't it also clog with fines after a while - especially in a TT where it hasn't got the flow rate of a shower?
Cheers
Bob
Re: Blagdon Ceramic Media
Bob not sure if you have been down to Koi Logic in Essex lately last time I popped in there they had those roto showers running with Crystal bio so you can really have a good look at how the media looks all matured up.
Not sure if that helps.
Graham
Not sure if that helps.
Graham
-
- Site Admin
- Posts: 554
- Joined: Sun Apr 16, 2006 10:24 am
Re: Blagdon Ceramic Media
Sam,hi all so what is the difference between a shower,and a trickle tower.what is the best media for both.lets no include bhm.
There is a clear distinction between trickle towers and showers and it's all to do with the bugs that colonise them. It gets a bit technical so I'll skate quickly over some of the some of the points. Ask if you are sad enough to want more details.
If you grossly over-simplify the bug world, you could say that there are three types of bug. Sorry about the names, but if you want to understand the differences between trickle towers, showers and which media does best in them, you have to understand this before I can go on:
Obligate aerobic bugs: An easy way to remember this is that they are obliged to live aerobically (plenty of oxygen).
Obligate anaerobic bugs: Obliged to live anaerobically (no oxygen).
Facultative anaerobic bugs: Easiest way; they are aerobic but they have the facility to live anaerobically if they can steal some oxygen from somewhere.
In conventional nitrogen cycle filtration, both bugs (nitrosomonas and nitrobacter) are obligate aerobic. They need lots of oxygen which is why Jap-mat with a few airstones or bubbly cauldrons of K1 are good conventional media.
In a true trickle tower, there is a sealed container, usually a long vertical tube, full of media. Any old media will do as long as it's a solid surface. The only way oxygen can get inside is in the water that goes in at the top. As long as there is only a trickle through this tower of media (geddit?) there will be very little oxygen for the bugs inside it. Obligate aerobic chaps like our nitrogen cycle bugs will gasp their last and peg out. There will be just a little bit too much oxygen for obligate anaerobic bugs to be very happy so the only bugs that do well inside here are the facultative anaerobes. Nitrate is NO3 which is one nitrogen and 3 oxygen atoms so these thieving little sods steal the oxygen which only leaves nitrogen. In other words, what they do is to take any nitrate in the water that goes in and convert it to nitrogen gas which just bubbles away as soon as the water trickles out. Trickle towers reduce nitrate levels in pond water.
Showers; These are usually trays of media stacked vertically so that a good flow of water tumbles down over them, becoming highly aerated as it goes.
Bakki showers are very good, so is BHM but they are sold with great big dollops of BS. I'm not anti Bakkis or anti BHM, I'm anti BS. For example, I read, ".... and the breeder was looking at the way water in a mountain stream trickled down over the rocks.... to imitate it, he invented the shower and BHM....." Very poetic BS but BS just the same. There is no similarity between the rocks in mountain streams and a shower full of BHM. A bog standard waterfall is a nearer equivalent, and as for the magic rays that BHM puts into the water - Please!!!!
So with that rant out of the way, Bakkis and BHM are very good but this is the way they really work. The diagram is from an article I wrote for Koi magazine on ways to reduce nitrate and I have reproduced it on my website.
http://www.mankysanke.co.uk/html/reducing_nitrate.html
There's a longer and better description in it but, briefly, this is how denitrifying media such as porous ceramic media or BHM works.
If you imagine a microscopic hole drilled into a piece of media, the red bugs could get all the oxygen they need from the water. Obligate anaerobic bugs would love it here. The blue bugs would have to make do with what was left but obligate anaerobes could survive here too. The mauve bugs would find that all the oxygen had already been used by their neighbours. Only facultative anaerobic bugs could live this deep and, (just like in a trickle tower), they could survive by stealing oxygen from nitrate in the water. All denitrifying media is, is a place where nitrogen cycle bugs can do there business on the outside of the media and facultative bugs can get rid of nitrate deep inside the holes.
Manufacturers don't drill tiny holes in media to turn it into denitrifying media, they make it porous like the honeycomb in Maltesers or they make a glass/ceramic media and overheat it to make it full of microscopic cracks. Nitrogen cycle bugs can live on the outside and facultative bugs live in the pores or cracks where oxygen cannot penetrate. Trickling mountain streams and magic rays don't come into it.
Combine that with putting trays of denitrifying media in a Bakki shower and there is the aerating effect of a waterfall too. Simple ain't it?
So which media should you put in a shower? BHM might be the most efficient denitrifier but I can't penetrate the marketing hype and get anyone to give me any detailed information about it so I can only say that it might be the most efficient. If you want a cheaper alternative, other denitrifiers such as Alphagrog, any of the porous ceramic media or even my current favourite, Lytag will also perform pretty well in a shower. I like K1 and Jap-mat but they are conventional media so they won't reduce nitrate, even if you use them in a shower.
Re: Blagdon Ceramic Media
Hi Syd
Thanks for the extra info mate.
If our local builders' merchant does not sell Lytag, is any similar lightweight aggregate suitable or will I just have to shop further afield? If so, do you know where I can get some - I'm probably only looking at 20-30 litres?
Cheers
Bob
Thanks for the extra info mate.
If our local builders' merchant does not sell Lytag, is any similar lightweight aggregate suitable or will I just have to shop further afield? If so, do you know where I can get some - I'm probably only looking at 20-30 litres?
Cheers
Bob
Re: Blagdon Ceramic Media
I love these discussions about media.
Syd, I'm not picking here so please don't think I am, I just want to learn
A few dealers out there push the BHM showers as the best and the proof is in the pudding, growth rates, no infections, koi always hungry and looking for food, etc.
I have a TT of sorts, more of a power shower that a TT.......it's a normal TT filled with 10kg of BHM and I pump from skimmer, over midi sieve and then directly over shower, pump is 2450gph, so probably 2000gph after bends, etc.......are there any benefits to this and could you kindly explain them, specifically as to how mine is set up ? Main filtration is 5 vortices with K1 and j/matt....
Are you saying that grog or any porous media is just as good as BHM, it's just the process that makes the media work.
I'd love to have a money pot and make 4/5 identical size ponds with same size koi, from same breeder and then use different media in each pond and then see the results after 2 years, now that would be interesting
Syd, I'm not picking here so please don't think I am, I just want to learn
A few dealers out there push the BHM showers as the best and the proof is in the pudding, growth rates, no infections, koi always hungry and looking for food, etc.
I have a TT of sorts, more of a power shower that a TT.......it's a normal TT filled with 10kg of BHM and I pump from skimmer, over midi sieve and then directly over shower, pump is 2450gph, so probably 2000gph after bends, etc.......are there any benefits to this and could you kindly explain them, specifically as to how mine is set up ? Main filtration is 5 vortices with K1 and j/matt....
Are you saying that grog or any porous media is just as good as BHM, it's just the process that makes the media work.
I'd love to have a money pot and make 4/5 identical size ponds with same size koi, from same breeder and then use different media in each pond and then see the results after 2 years, now that would be interesting