ALL THINGS KOI AND H2O
YOU 
    FLUKEY LITTLE DEVIL YOU!
DUNCAN GRIFFITHS
There are many parasites 
    that infect ornamental fish, but the ones that seems to instil fear in the 
    minds of koi keepers are flukes
    
    Flukes belong to 
    Monogenetic Trematode parasitic flatworms genus. They exist in Many forms 
    and infect a many varieties of fishes.requiring only one host to complete 
    an entire life cycle, For our purpose's we will be discussing the main variety 
    gill fluke and skin or body fluke.
Before 
    we get into this subject lets clear a little misconception up,
    The term gill fluke does not mean they are only to be found on the gill lamellae, 
    they are just at home on the main body of the koi
Gill Fluke. Dactylogyrus

Gill fluke are hermaphrodites 
    meaning they possess both female and male reproductive sex organs, thus a 
    pond devoid of all parasites (if such a thing can ever exist) that encounters 
    a solitary fluke can soon, if conditions prevail for that fluke to thrive, 
    be overrun with fluke.
    There are about 100 subspecies the two main common species that are encountered 
    by the koi hobbyist are D. Vastator and D. Extensus, both require 
    a very slightly different temperature range but both are equally damaging 
    to fish.
    The morphological difference between gill flukes and skin / body flukes is 
    that gill flukes are oviparous meaning egg laying protozoa's, and because 
    of the complexity of their life cycle are difficult to fully eradicate
    Gill fluke are microscopic let me repeat that! *microscopic* and cannot 
    be seen with the naked eye, so if you are told otherwise, you now know.
    However fortunately for us these critters can be seen quite well in great 
    detail at low magnification X40/X100 no more than this magnification is required 
    for identification purposes.
    It will be noted that gill fluke has a typical worm like appearance and is 
    fastened to the epidermis by a foot like device, on the foot arranged around 
    the edge are very small sharp hooks called haptens, the fluke uses these to 
    move across the gill or body and anchor itself to the koi.At the other end 
    of the tube the anterior, are suckers that is used for the intake of food 
    and nutrients, these can also be seen as the gill fluke stretches and contracts 
    as the fluke ingests food matter, the fluke is capable of doubling in length 
    as this pulsating action takes place. This accompanied by two sets of paired 
    eyespots making four eyes spots in all at the sucker end of the fluke.
Flukes function in extreme 
    temperature ranges and can be quite adept even as low as 6 deg Celsius and 
    there is no know upper limit to their operating range of temperatures.
    As mentioned before the gill fluke is an egg-laying parasite and treatment 
    is a little difficult as it is very much a case of which came first the chicken 
    or the egg
    Newly emerged flukes, are fully free swimming smaller versions of the adult 
    and must attach to a host within around 24 hours or so or perish, this is 
    applicable to all temperature ranges once the fluke has hatched. Once attached 
    they very quickly start the reproduction cycle and disperse eggs into the 
    environment, but this is very temperature dependant, at low temperatures the 
    fluke will only release one or two eggs per hour, however as the pond temperature 
    rises to typical summer temperature ranges this will increase to over 20 eggs 
    per hour and beyond.
    It must also be noted that in real cold climates both adults and eggs can 
    lay dormant for up to six months until the temperatures favour them.
    Fluke eggs hatching rate is also temperature dependant at low temperatures 
    they will take months to hatch and can indeed lie in waiting for the temperature 
    to rise, or at summer temperatures will hatch in about 4 days, this makes 
    treatment extremely difficult in the case of Dactylogyrus, but not impossible, 
    so don’t worry,
Skin fluke Gyrodactylus

    Upon microscopic inspection of a skin fluke you will see a slightly fatter 
    version of the gill fluke with no eyespots evident and although the small 
    array of small hapten hooks can be seen you can also see a pair of particularly 
    nasty, very large pair of hooks formed into a classical H shape which Gyrodactylus 
    uses for anchorage on the body,

    These primary hooks will be very evident upon inspection and will probable 
    be the very first thing you notice, thus it will always stand out in your 
    mind and be remembered,
    Typically as you look to the middle section of the fluke you will notice the 
    unborn fully formed embryo and inside that yet another identified by those 
    large single pair of primary hooks,
    The skin fluke is a little like those little wooden Russian dolls where on 
    taking the head section off there is yet a smaller one inside, so in one adult 
    skin fluke, there can often be seen several generations of fluke, one inside 
    the other.
    Reproduction in skin fluke is also temperature dependant in much the same 
    way as gill fluke although skin fluke do seem more able at reproduction at 
    lower temperatures than gill fluke.-
    It should also be noted that although both are parasites in the strict sense 
    of the word they do not feed on the life's blood of the host but merely attach 
    to the fish and feed on what passes by (dead cells etc). And provides no benefit 
    to the host.
So 
    why do fish die from fluke infestation?
As previously described the both types of fluke have a serious set of grippers (hooks)

And these are laced 
    with very virulent inoculate pathogenic bacteria, so as the fluke moves around 
    and secures itself on the host the hooks will puncture the surface of the 
    koi's skin or gill lamellae. This in most cases will cause an Aeromonas / 
    pseudomonas -infection, which can at best lead to a bacterial ulcer (hole 
    disease) and at worst bacterial gill disease (BGD), the latter of which is 
    as near to a death sentence for the koi as is possible, as BGD is very difficult 
    to cure and takes a lot of time and dedication to correct, its also a fact 
    that by the time the damage is usually notice the damage is already done and 
    beyond repair.
    There is no upside to the damage inflicted by fluke.
If the life cycle of 
    Gyrodactylus and Dactylogyrus is full understood treatment becomes much or 
    effective and predictable, it must therefore be understood that save one treatment 
    a single treatment alone will not eradicate gill fluke, so we must employ 
    multiple sequenced treatments the time span of which will be determined by 
    the water temperature, since we are aiming to catch the emerging hatchling 
    fluke as well as the parent,
    The parent is easily dealt with by many treatments, potassium permanganate, 
    formalin, chloramines T or Masoten, The latter of which is restricted in its 
    use being an organophosphate, but ultimately has been over used by the Japanese 
    breeders in their endeavour to over come fluke infestations and as such we 
    have seen a mutation of fluke that can survive Masoten exposure
    Formalin whilst being effective treatment in many ways is a very efficient 
    consumer of valuable pond water oxygen, and therefore as the koi may have 
    compromised gill function would not be a first line choice of treatment.
    (Antibiotics do not eliminate flukes or any other parasites) just I case you 
    were wondering, they only work against bacteria.
    
    Potassium Permanganate 
    Potassium Permanganate is useful for gill and skin fluke control at 
    the rate of 1.5 gm per ton of water (220 imp gallons) or 1.5 ppm( parts per 
    million)
    In order for this treatment to be effective against any fluke the typical 
    colour of an active dose of PP (bright pink) must remain pink for at least 
    4 hours,
    The activity of Potassium Permanganate, is influenced by the organic load 
    of the water
    Potassium Permanganate is an oxidizer and will oxides anything organic it 
    comes into contact with for our purpose this can and does work against us 
    as we treat, in some cases where a high organic load is present Potassium 
    Permanganate will spend itself on the organics dissolved in the water and 
    exhaust itself before an effective time period has elapsed to treat the parasite
    I.E. the dirtier the higher the organic load, quicker the pink of the water 
    goes to a tea brown colour, thus the pp is spent and of no danger to anything.
    If this occurs a second half dose of the original dose @0.75 gm per ton should 
    be administered and hopefully a longer duration to a total of 4/5 hours of 
    pink can be achieved to damage and kill the fluke.
Potassium Permanganate 
    at the dose described above, is only a dose of 1.5ppm, that’s 1,5 parts Potassium 
    Permanganate to 1 million parts water that’s how powerful Potassium Permanganate 
    is. A dose of 2 to 3 ppm can be tolerated by koi but you are now in the land 
    of, will it kill my koi or wont it?
    The author does not recommend any other dose than the 1.5 gm per ton of water 
    and a further half dose if it turns a very definite brown colour before 4 
    hours have elapsed.
    Further to this it is important that the original dose is very definitely 
    brown in colour, failure to observe this colour protocol will result in an 
    overdose and very dead koi!!!
    
    Two more observations, always know you pond volume before hand and gm weigh 
    the dose precisely, there is no other way to administer this chemical
    If you do not observe volume and weight dose protocol exactly the best that 
    will occur is, at best you will under dose and achieve nothing and at worst 
    overdose and kill koi, so be warned!A handy tip when using Potassium Permanganate 
    is to keep on hand some pond dechlorinator or sodium thiosulfate, which is 
    to be found in most commercial dechlors.
    If for some reason you take your eye off the ball and over dose and the koi 
    come skyward gasping, it should be noted that if you treat the whole contents 
    of the pond with a standard dose of dechlor it will neutralize Potassium Permanganate 
    in seconds and the whole mess will turn brown rendering the occupants safe 
    from the effects of the Potassium Permanganate oxidisation process. 
When treating gill fluke it is important to catch the emerging hatching fluke, and this can best be achieved in temperatures above 17/18 deg and a sequential doses of the above 1.5 gm per ton, spaced five days apart for 3 treatments maintaining the active pink colour for a minimum time period of 4 hours and no more than 7 hours at one time.
Chloramines T is another 
    good choice for skin and gill fluke and in many ways as long as the ph value 
    of the water is 7.5 or above is quite forgiving on the koi but not the fluke
    Dose at 2 gm per 100 imperial gallons on days one, two and three, leave for 
    seven days and do a one off dose at 2 gm per 100 imp gallons,
    There is an additional benefit of the use of Chloramine T in so much a it 
    will reduce the bacterial count both in the pond water and also at 2 gm per 
    100 on the fish
    Once again if your fish show any sign of stress to a C/T treatment dechlor 
    will neutralize the effects of Chloramine T.
    supaverm is an oral sheep drench for intestinal worms in the afore 
    mentioned sheep.And has been developed for use in koi
    This is the ultimate big stick against both skin and gill fluke requiring 
    only a one off dose as it destroys the eggs as well.
    However this substance is restricted and is hard to locate, plus in the UK 
    it is illegal to use a wormer for any other beast other than that for which 
    it was originally intended for use on, having said all that it is available 
    from various sources usually at exorbitant prices, but as said already it 
    is the last word in fluke treatments
Dose at 1 ml/cc per 
    100 imperial gallons. As a one off treatment administer over three to four 
    hours spreading around the pond, after 48 hours do a couple of 15% partial 
    water changes over a couple of days
    Be warned!
    Supaverm may stress and burn the fish in some cases, it will burn the 
    intestine of the fish and as a result the fish may redden and show typical 
    stress in this case do a partial water change, the koi usually bounce right 
    back with renewed vigour
    If however you are counting multiple fluke on each and every mucus scrape 
    under microscopic examination this should set alarm bells ringing even if 
    the koi may behaving normally for your pond situation, that something is out 
    of the koi's normal control. (and only you will know this) In 
    time or when pond parameters or pond temperatures take a turn for the worst 
    the koi could and probably will come under a very real threat from flukes.